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Mina Markovic - strong year 2009 overview


About session/competition results:
- 3rd place world championship China (overall=combined ranking)
- 4thplace World championship China (boulder)
- 1st place master Durango (Spain)
- 2nd place rock master Arco
- 4th place WC Barcelona
-3rd place WC Brno


Rock:
-8b OS, 8 x 8a+'s OS
-8b RP

 

 

SPAIN TRIP 2009

After some worldcups and masters in september there come some kind of little 'break' of competitions, so i decided, to go to Spain... Decision was made quick and spontaneous after national competition...I just saw i need a break of routine, sometnihg else, new experience...So i decided - I GO, withoout big plans, just with big desire of climbing and enjoing the rock...

Four days later i have land to Spain and the trip began... First four days i spend with some friends who study in Spain and are also very strong climbers...We 'warmed up' in Terradets in 7c+ (possibly 8a) and 8a on-sihgt, for first day in rock after more than half of year, it is ok...In evening we moved to Rodellar, because conditions in Terradets were way to warm and sunny for propriety life and climbing J.

Becomming in Rodellar in always unforgotable experience. I' ve been there four or five years ago, but I have to admit, that in this time thins changed quite a lot. Ok, canyon and other enviorment is still unnormaly beautifuly, routs quality and nice, rock in rock...But i was suprised on climbing atmosphere in village and refugio. You feel why you are here and what you want to do - climb hard!

In next days i've just climb... Every day i woke up with new plans and ideas what to climb and try or what i want to see and experienc. I won't forgot climbing in Psicineta, sector 'over the hill' above hour of walk away from other sectors. Big and long overhangings (45o , 50 meters) uper the cristal clear mountain lake with sun and interestin routes. 8a and one 8a+ on sight, walking and thinking around Rodellar canyon i submited like - rest day! Next days i'will try harder... It was also the day, when my friends had to ga back to city for study, so i had to made a decision, if i saty of go to city with them...Little unsure of staying alone i decided - to stay. And this was definitively very best decisioin. I met a lot of new people, hnag out with other who i knew from before, always climb with interesting people and come along with different aspect of climbing and life...and always, day after day climb as much as i could... Almost every day I onsgihted one or two 8a+'s or were really close to 8b's and also did my first 8b (in 3rd try). But not all days were perfect... One day, after hard climbing day, i woke up totally destructed with not really big desire of climbing. But i still went to crag, just to check out what could i do today...Warming up was hard, no 'flying' on the rock, but still, i decided to go to 8b. I knew that in last days i was 100% successful on 8a+'s, so it was the time. And it really was the day, when i onsighted my first 8b J!...

Maybe sometimes in my wish of climb i was little selfish, i admit. So i think this is the wright place to apoligize to all my co-climbers who may expericenced that J!...I would also like to thank to all climbers who i climbed, lived (in Kalandraka) or just hang-out with. I just have to say, that i really think that those nine days climbing annd staying in Spain were really god and hard forgotable experiecne.

Thank you!
Bye, mina

Routes report:

ON SIGHT:
8b
La banda (Gran boveda)
8a+
No limit
Las dos golondrinas de la Piscineta
The kings of metal
Florida (1st part)
Paidea
Monserrat (8a/a+)
8a
Latio del miedo
El corredor de la muerte
Ambition cero
Argo
Colloseum
7c+
? (terradets) (possibly 8a?)
La vara de la Florention (possibly 8a?)
Espolon de la rana
Sloution spirit

RED POINT:
8b:
BTR

 

 


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